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Dining Out:

La Cubana has a lot on its plates

August 16, 2008|By Joanna Linkchorst

La Cubana has been serving Cuban food for a quarter of a century, and celebrated its silver anniversary by moving from Colorado Street into the Exchange in downtown Glendale. Where the old place was dark, cozy and old world (as seen in photos on LaCubanaRestaurant.com), the new place is bright and new, right down to the crisp white linens.

Everyone was cheerful and attentive, making sure we were well taken care of and comfortable. The menu is in Spanish with a few details in English. The staff was glad to explain anything we couldn’t figure out.

Cuban sandwiches are very simple. The Pan con Bistec has steak, pounded very thin and breaded, served on a crusty white bread roll with rings of crunchy onion slices. They brought us condiments, but my son was happy with his huge sandwich the way it was. There was plenty of flavor in the seasoning.

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My daughter went for her obvious choice, Pollo Frito. She eagerly ate her half of a chicken, enjoying the thin, light, crispy batter. It was moist and crunchy and actually disappeared before her thick and firm Papas Fritas (French fries).

The Lechon Asado was amazing. So tender, the roast pork fell apart at the touch of my fork. There was a lovely pork flavor, mildly seasoned with just a hint of garlic and slices of onion garnish on top. It was a very hearty meal.

The Fricase’ de Pollo, or chicken fricassee, was a big hit all around. Sweet red and green bell pepper slices with chunks of tender chicken are served in a large, white ceramic bowl accenting the beautiful reddish color of the savory sauce.

Entrees come with white rice and garlicky black beans, or moros and cassava. Moros is rice and beans mixed together,and it’s very good. Cassava, also known as Yuca, is a root and very similar in texture to a potato. I found the flavor so subtle as to be almost nonexistent, but my deeply subtle husband went nuts over his. Our guest, Jonah, showed more than a flicker of interest.

A family-run establishment all these years, the place has a very comfortable feel.

There were lots of families eating there, and all were greeted in a most friendly way. Customers dressed anywhere from casual to fancier than casual. I think our bus boy represented it perfectly with his crisply ironed white shirt, black slacks and black and white Nikes.

The patio had chairs, but none were set up on this Friday night. There are now Spanish and California wines as well as a few beers on the menu. And they validate parking in the Glendale Urban Garage next door, also known as the Exchange Parking Structure.


 JOANNA LINKCHORST is a lifelong resident of La Crescenta. She can be reached at NoTipForYou@aol.com.

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