Dining Out:

In a world of pre-fab mini-malls, where restaurants turn over annually, it’s pure pleasure to see a place that’s stood the test of time. Pecos Bill’s Bar-B-Q was built brick by brick by Bill Stenzel back in 1946 with a fabulous wood-burning oven as the cornerstone of this 10-by-10-foot space.

He came from Oklahoma by way of Tennessee armed with family recipes, old school barbecue know-how and a desire to share his passion for slow-cooked Okie barbecue. His grandson Owen Stenzel and wife, Eva, carry on the tradition today and we’re the luckier for it.

Back in ’46, a walnut grove filled the lot next door. So Bill used walnut wood to smoke his meats. Nowadays, Owen and Eva, use whatever wood the arborist brings, typically hard fruit woods like plum, peach and citrus from Glendale homeowners who no longer want the overgrown trees in their yard.

That’s what I call locally made cuisine. You’ve got to love that and you’ve also got to love the fact that they stop serving when the meat runs out.

Pecos Bill’s is open every day but only from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. (or until the meat runs out). They can’t stay open any longer because it gets mighty hot in the small space, but that doesn’t keep them from smiling as they take your order.

There’s often a line on the sidewalk leading up to the order window but the service is surprisingly fast. They keep things streamlined with only a few items on the menu: Okie Beef, Pork, Ham or Turkey in sandwich form ($4.50) or by the pound ($15 to $16), coleslaw and baked beans ($3/pint), fresh brewed iced tea ($1), fresh squeezed lemonade ($2) and on the weekends, pork ribs ($15/pound, about eight ribs).

I’m here to tell you those ribs are some of the best I’ve ever had. Slow-cooked, never boiled, for five to six hours and sparingly brushed with, I’m guessing, a combination of their two sauces. They fill your nose with a heady, smoky scent and fall off the bone into your mouth with tangy and slightly spicy flavors.

I asked for more information on their standard barbecue sauce. They said if they told me more than just “it’s an old recipe,” they’d have to kill me. I happen to know this sauce is not everyone’s favorite. It’s the color of caramel sauce with a thinner consistency and a very distinctive flavor. Some call it tasteless or gelatinous, but I find it mild with a delicate smokiness.