Three words: French onion soup. This crock of culinary greatness is the primary reason to come to a friendly neighborhood bistro called the Riverside Cafe. Situated on a corner near the Burbank Equestrian Center, the Riverside Cafe also offers a wide variety of European-inspired dishes and a pleasing, if not well-worn, atmosphere that encourages diners to linger. But oh, the soup is the thing.
I had heard it was good so I went with a healthy dose of skepticism. Other places claim to have the best French Onion Soup but I’ve often found them too salty or too sweet or too beefy. These restaurants try to mask their underachieving soup with gobs of flavorless cheese.
But not here. The long-simmered broth tastes of onions and has lots of sweet onion chunks in it. It is not greasy and not falsely dense in flavor. There is a piece of fresh French bread floating between the soup and the cheesy topping. Yes, there’s a good deal of broiled cheese on top, but it’s a wonderful imported gruyere that breaks down into easy spoonfuls. Even at $7.50, I couldn’t find a thing wrong with it.