Going to Sakana Japanese Sushi Bar & Grill is a little like walking into a fairy tale. You step through the big wooden doors of an ogre's house, walk over the bridge of the three billy goats Gruff, and end up in a room filled with red chandeliers amid a chorus of welcomes. The similarites don't stop there. A happy attitude pervades the place that is true to its published motto, "fabulous, friendly service from the heart."
The 2-month-old Sakana has taken the place of the short-lived Love Sushi. I don't know the reason for the sudden change, but I can't say I'm sad about it. Sakana is cooler-looking and serves better food. It's a dollar or two more than other sushi joints in town, but the portions are generous, the fish is fresh, and the specialty rolls are creative.
Three immaculate-looking chefs stand at attention behind the long, marble sushi bar. They crank out the standard sushi combo plates (tuna, salmon, white fish, yellowtail, albacore and spicy tuna roll for $12.99) with lightning speed and an artistic flourish. They also offer other favorites, such as halibut, sea urchin, squid, and on the day I was there, monkfish liver, by the two-piece (sushi) or three-piece (sashimi) plate ($3.25 to $14.95).