Sushi as magical as a fairy tale

Going to Sakana Japanese Sushi Bar & Grill is a little like walking into a fairy tale. You step through the big wooden doors of an ogre's house, walk over the bridge of the three billy goats Gruff, and end up in a room filled with red chandeliers amid a chorus of welcomes. The similarites don't stop there. A happy attitude pervades the place that is true to its published motto, "fabulous, friendly service from the heart."

The 2-month-old Sakana has taken the place of the short-lived Love Sushi. I don't know the reason for the sudden change, but I can't say I'm sad about it. Sakana is cooler-looking and serves better food. It's a dollar or two more than other sushi joints in town, but the portions are generous, the fish is fresh, and the specialty rolls are creative.

Three immaculate-looking chefs stand at attention behind the long, marble sushi bar. They crank out the standard sushi combo plates (tuna, salmon, white fish, yellowtail, albacore and spicy tuna roll for $12.99) with lightning speed and an artistic flourish. They also offer other favorites, such as halibut, sea urchin, squid, and on the day I was there, monkfish liver, by the two-piece (sushi) or three-piece (sashimi) plate ($3.25 to $14.95).

The chefs seem to really let loose, though, when making their specialty rolls. I was amused by how they describe them on the menu. For instance, the Wok Special ($11.99) reads "in: California roll; out: cashew, snowpea, shrimp, mushroom." It is a meal unto itself, where slices of a particularly nice California roll are covered in the warm, grilled mushrooms, nuts, shrimp and veggies.

Another standout roll is the Scallop Dynamite ($12.99) described as "in: asparagus, crab; out: spicy scallop." This one has sweet fluffy crab wrapped in sticky rice with the added snap of asparagus and a rich topping of grilled scallops and onions. It's as satisfying as Thanksgiving dinner. I was glad to see they offer udon ($7.99) for when I'm craving it, but it doesn't hold a candle to the stuff you get in Little Tokyo. My son raved about his beef teriyaki plate ($11.99), however, and I adored his side salad with fresh field greens and a tangy wasabi dressing.