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Dining review: Slow-cooked with an emphasis on slow

Cajun restaurant takes its time, but the ribs are worth the wait.

December 03, 2011|By Lisa Dupuy
  • The BBQ Combo at Big Mama's Rib Shack in Pasadena, featuring live blues music by the Artwork Jamal band on Tuesday, November 30, 2011. The band members are Artwork Jamal as the lead singer, Elizabeth Hangan on bass, Steve Hendrix on guitar and Stephen Kidda on drums. (Tim Berger/Staff Photographer)
The BBQ Combo at Big Mama's Rib Shack in Pasadena,…

The only thing better than slow-cooked spare ribs slathered in BBQ sauce are spare ribs slathered in sauce with a side of rhythm and blues. That’s just what you get at Big Mama’s Rib Shack in Pasadena twice a week.

From 6:30-8:30 on Tuesday nights and 6:30-9 on Saturdays, local musicians set up their gear in the middle of the restaurant and serve up some saucy jazz, blues, rock and soul to go along with Big Mama’s Cajun and Creole fixin’s. It’s a Mardi Gras atmosphere as diners laugh out loud and lick their fingers clean before applauding. “Every Tuesday is Fat Tuesday,” explained our waiter. Mercy and the Merkettes and the Cruisers graced the stage recently. The West Coast blues of Atomic Roots Orchestra and American Songbook artist Jennifer Gates are on the docket for December (see bigmamas-ribshack.com for a full schedule).

The late Emma Sue Miller McWhorter, better known as Big Mama, started cooking and selling Southern food 75 years ago, handing down recipes to her kids and grandkids. The family had plenty of time to perfect their methods and, happily, these folks are not afraid of strong flavor. The dirty rice gets down and well, dirty, with powerful punches of pepper and bay leaf. The red beans turn up the heat as well. Thick Cajun fries are speckled with cayenne and fried till piping hot. The collard greens have just a whisper of bitterness. And the cole slaw is everybody’s favorite kind — sweet and watery with no raisins mucking it all up. Still I’d give it all up for one more bite of Big Mama’s fried chicken ($2-$4 a piece). How they do it, I don’t know. But the seasoned flour coating is thick and crispy, the chicken hot and juicy. I can’t remember having better.

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The pork ribs are big and meaty with a sauce that’s not too sweet, not too spicy and with the perfect thickness to keep it where it’s slathered ($16.95/half rack). The Creole seafood combo ($24.95) is delicious with cornmeal-coated, deep-fried catfish, oysters and shrimp. Proper Southern hush puppies come alongside. They were unfortunately out of beef ribs, my litmus test for fall-off-the-bone cooking. But the barbecue beef, smoked on a pit, and the hot links were respectable ($13.50 on the BBQ mini-combo).

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